Doing a bust adjustment on the Dahlia is fun — yes fun — because the shaping is achieved through gathers. This means that we can rotate the added or reduced fullness where we want it to go without having to redraw any darts unless you want to add a dart, of course.
The FBA adds extra ease in the bust, which prevents the fabric from stretching horizontally. To determine how much fullness you need to add, cut your muslin in a cross shape right over your apex, and pin some fabric behind it.
Measure to see how much length and width you need to add. If you make a muslin first, you may notice an excess of fabric at the apex of the dart, as well as diagonal bunching between the side and bust seams. To determine how Sba dahlia fullness you need to remove, pinch out a cross shape over you bust apex.
Measure to see how much length and width you need to subtract. Or better yet, go get fit! So whichever you are doing, follow along.
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Draw in your bust apex the point on your bust that sticks out the most. To figure out where this is, mark the apex of your own bust on your muslin, then measure from the waist and side seam.
Mark it in the same place on your pattern. If you are doing a bust adjustment before making a muslin, a good rule of thumb is that the apex is about 1 inch from the tip of the dart.
Draw a slash line up the middle of the dart, up to the apex point shown in blue. Draw another slash line from the apex point to the seam allowance marker at armhole shown in green.
Cut upward along slash line 1, pivot and continue cutting along slash line 2, stopping at seam allowance marker. Snip into armhole seam allowance, up to your marker line but not through it.
This will allow the pattern pieces to pivot. Cut inward along slash line 3 up to the tip but not through it, again enabling the pattern pieces to pivot. For a more fitted and tailored look, convert that extra length into a side bust dart! Tape a piece of paper under that gap in your pattern.
Then simply draw the tip of the dart about 1 inch to the left of the apex. Draw the legs so that they cross the gap right at the seamline. Draw new dart legs, starting at original dart legs at seam allowance, up to your new dart tip shown in black.
Tune in tomorrow for a tutorial on how to split your bust dart into two darts! This is very useful for those of you with large busts, because it will give a softer, less pointy look to your bust.The development of Seven Elms Resort, Inc.
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